Backwash

That was the theme of the day with dudes getting launched like they were on a giant trampoline. It was pretty frustrating, pretty much impossible to get a wave without having to negotiate it. But the conditions were sick and the swell was solid, even if it was a little overforecasted. Massive fire on the mountainside, too, that caused the cops to close the beach for a few hours. Oh well, I got a little more of a warm-up/workout in having to hike in over the guardrail and across the beach.

And of course, more vid action: