Had some time to kill after work during the middle of the day. Being that it was Veteran's Day (thank you heroes), I figured North Shore would be an absolute zoo and so I was trying to avoid going out there. So I checked Maili...bah, blown out and small. 3rd Dip? I know better than to think I'd score it after just having done so last week, too soon. So much for scoring away from the crowds.
Painfully, I turned it around and headed to the North Shore after all. The whole time in my mind I'm thinking 'minimum 50 guys at V-land', dreading it as I did (especially if it was as small and north and crappy as it was on Tuesday - forecast was about the same size). So there must have been a blue moon out because I actually checked the Ehukai stretch for the first time in I don't know how long. So-so, but definitely a holiday crowd from Rockys to Rockpiles. Arggggh, on to 50+ guys at V-land (at least I could tell by now that the swell was pretty decent, quite a bit bigger than forecasted).
Passing Ted's I'm like 'wow, that's not very many cars.' Walking through the trees off the bike path I'm like 'wow, why is there hardly anyone out?' Less than 30 guys. Sitting down to put on my fins I'm like 'wow, that is one fat, warping mutant of a barrel reeling across that entire reef.' It was so on I couldn't get those fins on and the pre-surf prayer said fast enough!
It was seriously epic. As good as I've ever scored it at V-land, at least for that size (which was about 2-4'+ w/plenty of west pushing across). I should probably call it the best I've EVER surfed it being that the crowd never hit 30 guys the whole time I was out there. Zero lulls, both the west bowl and the deeper peak firing and lots even connecting all the way across - 30 guys is not even a problem when it's like that. I had way more than my fill of waves. It blew my mind the whole time how uncrowded it was, especially for a holiday.
I could go on and on. Ok I will. That little intermediate spot in the lineup where you can backdoor those double-ups - it was just ridiculous how many waves were jacking up right there. I can't remember the last time I saw the west bowl heaving as perfectly as it was today. It was just stroke a couple times, bottom turn, smile through the (s)pit, repeat. Oh and the tide was dropping super low, which made it even more square across the inside. It was so good, I feel like I should stay out of the water for awhile, just to let this session marinate a bit and to not dishonor it.
The only lame part was that I had to leave after only about 2 hrs. to get back to Waianae for some work. Lame not that I had to work, but lame that I have complete control over my schedule and if I had a crystal ball, I totally would have told my clients "it's a holiday, let's cancel our class, I'll see you next week." Oh well, so closes the window. I don't know when or if everything will all come together like that again. I can only hope. I think this is why we ride, though, right? To see if the EPIC has a twin sister out there somewhere? To find that next window? Yup.
As bummed as I was to leave, it couldn't have been that bad because I yelped and screamed and giggled like a complete pansy in the car all the way to Waianae. It was that good, that hard to shake. Gonna sleep good tonight. Can you believe the thought even crossed my mind to spend the afternoon in a library doing homework? Thank you federal holiday for nixing that retarded plan.
It's straight criminal that I don't have any pics to show for today. Workin' on that whole camera thing. I totally swiped this one from the internet. It was sorta like this today, only bigger. And chunkier. If this is your V-land shot, my bad. Let me know, I'll take it down.
1 comment:
That swell was solid and the conditions were beautiful. I'm glad you hooked up!
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