Finally

I was beginning to think summer was over with how flat it's been. But the southern hemi's not quite through yet with Hawaii, thank goodness. Hope you got some waves during this swell. If not, there should be some more next week. Winter's right around the corner, too!

Epic day at one of my favorite spots! I wish I had gone straight there and not surfed town at all (even though town was decent, it doesn't compare to this). My new 'friend', beachboy photography (click the pic for more of his work, good stuff). Not the greatest shot of me, but I'm just glad there's a shot of me out there at all! Also, check sequence 99-107 - I remember that wave coming through and tried to stroke for it for a moment but just couldn't get into it. I'm glad someone tagged it because look how it turned out!!!