Back on the Attack

Long time ago, I used to have a surf journal that I kept. It had the spot, the swell height, tides, etc. and how the sesh went. I don't think I'll ever go back to being that precise, but here's the substitute.

We just moved back to Oahu after being gone way too long, in my opinion. I've already had a bunch of sick sessions since we've been here. So far on of the most memorable has to be that huge SSW 2 weekends ago where it was bombin 4-6'+ for like 5 days and 2-3' for a few days before and after. Places like Maili Point were even bigger (duckdiving skills were tested, to say the least!). I got to surf Tumbleland a couple times during that swell, uncrowded, and pure ledgey perfection. Also had a good NNW this past Monday, 2-4'+. Went V-land where the place was going off. Easily in the top 3 sessions of all-time at that spot, wave-wise. Overall was kinda junk, though, because it was you and 40+ of your closest friends trying to be the king of the north shore. I mostly hung out on the inside and got a lot of fun hollow drainers. There's definitely little to no respect between anyone anymore on the north shore, I will say. At least not during the first swell of the new winter season.

No pics, but the next report should have some. Hopefully I'll take the cam out often, although it can get in the way.