Another one at V-land. So crowded earlier in the week when it was pumping on Monday, but it was a little smaller (2-4') and thought maybe if I go late and surf 'em til dark, I'll be able to have some time with a thinning crowd. Plus, I was out there anyway after a temple session so why not?
Was crowded but not as bad as Monday. A lot of kids and a lot of people who were semi-passive. I was a lot more aggressive than Monday (in a nice way). Too bad it was mostly frustrating. Decent size but whenever the sets would try and push from the west, it would get crossed up by the predominant ones that were coming from the north. Waves that, if it were Monday, looked like they were going to break, double up, then drain just kind of fizzled. It was definitely a trap that a lot of people fell into to paddle for the horizon when a set popped up. Most times you then saw 8-10 people turn around and start paddling inside again.
Still trying to figure out my board. It's too fast. And yet, when I'm behind a section just a little, I'm not thinking about busting something, I'm wondering whether I'm going to take it on the head. Gotta find that middle ground. One of these days, I'm going to go for it and bust one hard off the lip, and then it's going to be on.
9.21.2008
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