Out front

"Out front" - that's what my friend Adam and I refer to as the couple of spots straight down the road from our subdivision. I don't want to get a beat down, so that'll be the end of how I refer to it (not a secret spot or anything, I just don't want to be responsible for crowding). I can't remember if it was last Thursday or Friday, but there was some late south swell action. Fun stuff, starting just off the nasty rocks, drop, reform, then connecting across the inside of the point proper. Not sure if the tide was dropping, but there were some seriously hollow left peaks to try and backdoor. Almost powered through a couple, but mostly got tumbled a few times in the pit. Once, I got knocked pretty hard across the side of my head by the shockwave, giving me a bit of a headache/earache.

Went again this morning. Supposed to be a similar south swell, 1-3 ft. Yeah right. Maybe just not hitting right there, but it was pretty weak. I don't think I even saw a 3 foot wave at all, let alone caught one. It was clean as could be though, sheesh. Glassy and moving your hands through the water felt so smooth and silky. Lots of fishies. You got to see just how shallow it is out there, too, though. I had one cool right where I got pushed across into this sick bowl by a little northie pushing across. The south part was wrapping right at me, barrel behind me. Too fast for the wave, though, and the wave was too small. Oh well, such was the level of the thrills today. Really good to be up and rushing early, though.