...As in, hours. Yes, I surfed for 8 hours yesterday at V-land. Crazy. I don't know what got into me - maybe it was what I needed to get out of me. Anyway, the conditions and swell were pretty much as good as it gets, 4-6 ft., pretty much dead winds the whole day.
As epic as the conditions were, though, it was one of the stranger, out-of-sync, funky sessions I've had in a while. Not quite sure how to describe it other than that. Started out on the lefts with a goofy-foot surfer friend where there were some pretty good rides (and beat-downs paddling back out). Realized early on that I left my key in the trunk lock of my car, so I had to get out, run to get it and paddle back out. Thank goodness it was still there, along with the Caddy. Then, on a right actually while set up at the lefts, I got smacked on the back of the head from behind as I passed a girl floundering on her longboard on the inside. I've got a pretty good knot on my skull right now. Also caught a guy's skegs on my arm (thank goodness for the rashguard) and thigh later on during a duckdive, as well as having a few close calls with other surfers who were too reckless for their own good (or anyone else's). Saw a couple pros out there (and probably a bunch more that I didn't recognize), including Bethany Hamilton, who btw seems like a very, very nice person. Lots of angry peeps in the water, more than usual, it seemed to me. Why can't people just surf with a smile, respect other people, be aware of others and realize that there's always another wave out there?!
When my friend left, I switched over to rights in the people-pit. I guess this may have been why I was able to last so long out there, because the rate of waves caught was way less than usual due to the crowds. Had a few barrelling ones, a few spins, nothing much more. I think as time went on, I had no chance to do much of anything on waves because my body was worked. I was content pretty much to go fast and make some turns. But with the killer conditions and the swell bumping back up during the afternoon, I just couldn't bring myself to paddle in. With the sun going down and the crowd thinning, it got even harder to go in. Finally, pitch blackness shut me and everyone else down. How I got home without dozing off is a mystery.
11.15.2008
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