That's More Like It

I surfed V-land again this past Tuesday. It was easily the weirdest day out there ever with that strange NNE storm swell wrapping in. Very close interval, very hard to judge. But once again, the inside did not disappoint. You had to be far more selective than usual and wait for the wide swinging ones to hook up with the peak, but I had some pretty solid barrels.

The waves weren't anything near all-time, but the title says why it was still a good session - pretty much me and a couple other guys out and at one point, I was all by myself for about 30+ minutes (incontrast with my 8 hour session). Nobody seemed to want to give it a go, even at other spots that I checked, but it was a whole lot better than it looked. Pat O'Connell gave it a go as I saw him out there. He's a little guy with a growing gut but he rips pretty good. Adds to my string of "celebrities" I've seen out there so far this winter.

The weather's been really weird lately with days of trades interrupted by 3-4 days of kona's followed by wet weather. I hope it gets more consistent soon. The kona's on the north shore are epic, though, when it's just right and not too SW.

One of these days a pic will make an appearance.