Weak

It was one of those V-land days, below the threshold, as I like to call it. Seems that below a certain size, maybe 4 feet or so, V-land is a completely different and wimpy wave. Just really soft. Being that during the winter you're probably getting that kind of size as a swell is dying - which means it's already started turning more northerly - it's way more walled and inconsistent and really tough to get shacked sufficiently. Oh well, can't be epic every time, I guess.

I gotta figure out why just the tiniest amount of wax on my board gives me a rash so much quicker and worse than it used to on my old CustomX. I get scabby in a flash.

Had fun talking story with this bodyboarder dude who I later researched and found to be with Mike Stewart's brand. He ripped, too, DK kine mostly. The cool thing about it was he was really nice and was hooting me on on a few waves.

Also saw Mark (last name?) from the old 14th ward. Still a cool guy (and still skinny).

Had a few good ones, but mostly lame slow walls. A couple memorable waves were ones where I spun fast 360s right in the critical section of the wave and landed them right in the pocket.

More swell this Thanksgiving. WAY more.