Good...Better

Well, had that magical session at Maili point yesterday. Sort of. It was pumping, big, 8-10 feet, perfect offshore winds. Problem was the crowd. I couldn't believe how many people there were out there. And all it takes is a few "glide-and-decide" longboarders who stroke for every single wave to make it pretty frustrating. I had some fun drops, but with the water out there being so deep and the waves so fat and wide, the amount of speed you get off the drop on a bodyboard makes it very difficult to turn or do much of anything. Lots of bouncing and rail slippage. Went right on a couple, paid the price once when I took probably 8-10 waves on the way back out right on the head, including one that jacked right in front of me, one of the biggest ones of the day. I had no chance, so I ditched my board and dove as deep as I could. Didn't get worked too hard, but I got dragged backward at the arm by my board pretty far. That was quite the cardio during those few minutes. I think the swell probably peaked overnight. Adam had this huge bomb from way outside that was one of the sickest waves I've ever watched from over the shoulder. Everyone wanted one of those after that, but it was one of a kind for that session.

Well, I came to the Hukilau house later, thinking I was done for the weekend. But then, I was like, "Wait a minute, I'm ten minutes from V-land!" This morning, I got up early, thinking it was going to be too big, still, but went to check it anyway. Oh my goodness, it was going out of its mind. On that threshold of being too big, but still rideable and therefore, dredging and so freakin' hollow. I'll never forget that paddle out, how much it was wedging, how hard it was sucking back and just jacknifing over the reef. Not too crowded at first either. My first wave was possibly the best barrel of my life. Had a bunch of really good barrels. After a couple of hours, it got insanely crowded all the way up until about the time I left when there were 50+ people. Way too many for such a small takeoff zone. The conditions were perfect and with the drainers just steamrolling through, this may have been the best V-land ever for me. Now if we can get a swell like this in the spring when all the circus has gone home.

My only regrets were not going out when it was still dark (probably could have had an extra 30 min+ of the nuttiness, bummed, too, because I woke up plenty early) and surfing yesterday (could have lasted longer and had more fun if I didn't have so much rash).