Liars

Someone needs to have a word with all those in charge of the surf forecast. Stop exaggerating! Maili Point this morning was clean as could be with the conditions but the waves were disappointingly difficult and small. Well, maybe the hight tide and the side chop was the problem. It wasn't until about 2 hours into the session that it started picking up. Definitely not what they were calling for, at least not yet. Maybe it'll build later but the winds are already on it.

Had only one good wave that I can remember, a nice drainer that kept reforming. Also had this one wave where I was zooming down the line, sizing up the end section where I decided to throw a 360 right in the steep end section. Well, it threw me around fast. Probably a little faster than I was ready for, though. My weight was not quite where it needed to be over my board as I came out of the spin and I just came out of it blind and already on my way to eating it. It was kind of an inside wave and I was really worried about the inside reef. I got dragged underwater for quite a ways, but somehow I didn't hit reef. It took a lot out of my lungs, though, and it was quite the anaerobic struggle to battle past the following set. Can't remember the last time I struggled that hard.

Still looking for that magical session at this spot on these NW swells. It shows flashes, but so far it's been elusive.