V-land Payback

Was nuts today!

Not very big (2-3') but super hollow on the inside and absolutely dredging. I was having one of those days where you're in tune with your body, your equipment, and most importantly, with the wave. I had more shacks than I cared to count and this one session totally makes up for the last 2-3 crappy ones I've had out there.

I had a couple of nice rollo's including this one that I had so much speed on and landed so perfectly and effortlessly. That got me amped like nothing ever before! I was literally giggling after that and for most of the rest of the session. I had a bunch of waves where I either came out of a barrel or did a nice shwack off the top, right into a solid 360. There were a couple that I contemplated trying a backflip for a second, but couldn't quite bring myself to attempt. I would've retired if I had landed one of those. Nah, just gone for a second one.

There was this one freak of a wave that came out of nowhere (all the best ones seemed like they did). It was so thick and slabby that it looked like it belonged somewhere else, not V-land. Like Shark Island or something. This bodyboarder lady who was having a hard time on a surfboard scratched for it but started to back off. She had to pull back harder because the lip was starting to mutate and suck her over. The lip was probably a good foot or two thick and just pitched straight out onto almost dry reef for a good 20 yards down the line. It was the most nutty thing I've ever seen at V-land, hands down. I don't think I'll ever forget the image in my brain of that wave. Oh to have another one come through for me just like that. It should've been mine - I caught the wussy wave that came just before this meaty one. That was the worst feeling!

Buddha Brown was there, too (my new name for weirdo guy who likes to give me crap out there). He didn't say a word to me, at least not that I heard, probably because he was going over the shoulder on his paddle out, watching me get pitted and spit out of a fat one. I was just waiting for him to say something after that. Not much he could say, though.

So yeah, one for the ages!