Yokes Awakens

Scored again! First south swell of the season and it was, of course, sorta small and inconsistent. But there were some really good sets early in the session, overhead to maybe 1 1/2 times overhead. Very first wave, I had a fat, long left barrel that was so sick. The surprising thing about this session was how many good rights I had. Barrels there, too, but they were a lot faster and not as deep because you had to hustle down the line so as to not get closed out on and raked across the super shallow inside shelf (had a couple close calls).

I forgot how freakin' awesome this spot is. It's so close to shore with a great arena of a beach to watch from, so powerful yet makeable, the water is so clear and the surroundings are so beautiful. I love surfing it late in the afternoon as the sun is going down. The way it A-frames so perfectly makes it a pretty easy wave to catch and get set up for. It's pretty much the total package. Hope we get another south soon.