Since it's late in the spring and this might very well be the last northwest swell before the summer, I decided V-land was going to be my birthday gift to myself.
Kinda bummed at first, thought I was going to get hosed. It was choppy and messy from yesterday's west winds. It took about 3 hours, but it finally started to clean up. By about 4 hours into the sesh, it was pretty clean, hollow, uncrowded, sunny and beautiful. Too bad I had the trifecta going by then - rash, nasty acid reflux, and cramps. Oh but it hurt so good.
Even after it cleaned up, it was sorta short period, lumpy and rampy. I got a few thick barrels, though, some nice 360s in the critical section of the wave (including one right under the lip on my last one), and a clean rollo.
As I'm finding out right now while trying to eat and drink, the most memorable thing from this session will probably be the weirdest surf injury you could think of. I was flying down the line on a long, steep one to try and make it out. It started to pinch at the end. Not sure if it was the shockwave of the lip or what, but as I started to get chewed, a big gush of water shot into my mouth (keep your mouth closed, kids) at a very weird angle. It went straight down my throat, pretty much right into my stomach and as it did so, because of the angle, I felt it contort my trachea/hyoid bone to the left a fair amount. I seriously thought I cracked something and it felt like I'd been punched in the throat. It's still hurting but hopefully nothing too serious. How's that for weird?
Oh and there was a little celebrity action going on out there today, too - Pancho Sullivan was ripping, a couple other wahines that ripped like they might be pro's, and I think that singer Oshen was also out there, riding a board that reminded me of Nemo, the clownfish. He was pretty decent, though.
5.18.2009
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