Reef Dodgin'

Another decent early morning at Yokes. Pretty inconsistent, though, and more of an angle to the swell that straight-on A-frame jackers that I like. Sketcharific low tide. Smoothness of the water, early morning sun, peace and quiet, and choke fish on the reef is hard to beat, though.

Had this one steep one that I went after but kinda late. I knew it was going to be an air drop so I started picking out my landing angle to try and continue driving down the line. Well, right as I'm about to land, I see the lip pitch right out over me and next thing you know I'm chomped. The pitching lip picked my feet and legs up and bent me hard over my chest, shoulders, head and board the wrong way. More trachea trauma in the process of getting bent that hard the wrong way. Got tumbled a bit under water but got lucky and didn't hit reef. I wasn't expecting the licking, though, and so I didn't get to take a very big breath so I was gasping pretty good when I popped up.

Had another close call - A smaller one started to reform over the inside fingers of reef and as it did, I backdoored a nice little pit. It was sucking out harder than I realized, though, and my lower half started to get pulled up the face. That planted the upper half into the flats, the right side of my face leading the way. I just missed the reef finger by feet, if not inches, and luckily got piledriven into that pocket of deeper sandy water near the shore. It didn't dawn on me until I was paddling back out how bad the session could've ended right there.

Last wave, I waited forever for. I wasn't goin' out on a weak one and I finally got one of the better A-frames. There was no room or time for a bottom turn and so I pulled up the face after about half way down it and just got pitted. I probably could've stayed in longer if I had stayed higher (straightened out a bit and got pinched). Still a sick one to end on.

And just my luck, as I'm walking up the sand, the bomb 4-wave set of the whole morning comes rolling in with just one guy out. The braddah on the beach let me know it, too. Thanks buddy.

Waiting for that first 4 ft. + SW swell...