"Femme-in' it"

Wow, south swell has been pumping all week in the advisory levels and I've been at Yokes for 3 days straight, 3+ hours every time. Gotta go Big Island tomorrow, but should be a couple more smaller (2-4') swells to follow. It's cool, I got my fill. Big, hairy, and gnarly at Yokes (what else would it be?). Yesterday was the biggest day, probably 3-5'+. I actually liked it better today than yesterday - seemed like yesterday had big steep drops but just a big foamball to the inside after that. Today, the middle to inside was hollow and grinding across the reef. Pretty solid rights, too. My best wave of the whole week was today, one of my first. I saw down the line and knew it was going to be long but fast. Luckily I was right in the sweet spot to get in quick. I was blazing down the line and the end section stood up and was about to jack. I was still way behind it but I was flying pretty fast and so just went for it. Backdoored right through a perfectly round shack. Had so much speed, I probably could've busted something off the edge of the lip of the barrel. The boys playing on the inside were yelping after that one. Such a sick feeling!

So, about the title - I'm starting a new fashion trend. From all the water time I put in this week, I have rash everywhere. The rash on the back of my knees was about to make me cry yesterday. I've been trying to come up with something to cover it with, maybe athletic tape wrapped around my knees or something. I went into my wife's closet and found the perfect solution. Some of her old Nike workout tights were perfect for what I needed. On her, they come to just below the calf (capri style, if your fashion game is slippin'). On me, just below the knee. I got a bunch of sand stuck inside them after a while, but it was worth it. Combined with the rashguard I bought and SPF 60 sunscreen for my face and head, I was actually prepared and comfortable for a long session. It was just the trick.

No pics of the really thumping stuff (too much fun catching waves, too lazy to go get the camera), but here's a few early in the week at Tumble's before the big swell hit.